Saint-Pierre and Miquelon may be reached via the SPM Express ferry from Fortune, Newfoundland ( www.spmexpress.net / 800-563-2006) or on Air Saint-Pierre from Montreal, St. John’s, or Halifax, with additional departure cities in summer ( www.airsaintpierre.com / 877-277-7765).

Most accommodations are in the town of Saint-Pierre and within walking distance of the ferry. None is luxurious. Hôtel Île de France ( www.hoteliledefrance.net /011 508 41 03 50) has 24 no-frills guest rooms; the Hôtel Robert (709-832-2006) has 43 guest rooms divided between a motel-style structure and an older shingled building just off the harbor.

Islanders eat late. You have your pick of seats at 6:00 p.m. but may have to wait for a spot at 9:00. Brasserie Île de France (011 508 41 03 50) serves filling traditional French fare with especially good local seafood. Around the corner is Le Feu de Braise (011 508 41 91 60), which serves bistro fare. Light lunches are harder to come by; you’re better off getting cheese and bread at a store and enjoying a harborside picnic.

General island travel information (mostly in French) may be found at www.cheznoo.net .