The stockyards are gone, and every city has skyscrapers of its own now, but the robust Chicago of the 189Os lives on in the somber mahogany splendor of the Berghoff bar. With stained glass at the street end and heavy chandeliers shedding a mellow tea-colored light and people coming in out of the raw winter weather for a restorative pint of the house’s own double dark, it is easy for the visitor to get a sense of the dynamic, working city in what Theodore Dreiser called its “furnace days.” 17 West Adams Street.