Authors:
Historic Era:
Historic Theme:
Subject:
November 1988 | Volume 39, Issue 7
Authors:
Historic Era:
Historic Theme:
Subject:
November 1988 | Volume 39, Issue 7
New York practically has no strictly American restaurants, with food cooked in the native manner and served in the simple home style. One of the hardest things to buy in New York is genuine American cooked and served foods. The few exceptions are some of the oyster houses, dairy lunch rooms and occasional tea rooms that specialize in southern dishes prepared by a negro cook.…In the leading houses the chef is French; in a considerable portion of the others, he is German, Viennese or Italian. The waiters are almost universally foreign. In fact, the main distinction between the American and the foreign restaurant is that the former professes to cater to the American taste, while the latter tends to exaggerate its foreign features and make the most of their advertising value.
— Rider’s New York City — a Guide-Book for Travellers, 1923
Nearly all Italian restaurants feature table d’hote dinners. Usually these include antipasto (the Italian hors d’oeuvre in which is included many small fish), minestrone or a thin consomme, spaghetti or ravioli (and with excellent sauces), chicken or steak, lettuce salad, and either caramel custard, spumoni, biscuit Tor- toni or apple cheese. The lunches are lighter versions of the dinners.
Among the Italian specialties that are excellent and not included on many table d’hotes are broccoli with browned butter and cheese or Hollandaise sauce, veal scallopine, gnocchi Romano, and zucchine.
Enrico & Paglierri — 66 W. llth St. Lunch, 85c; Dinner, $1.35 Week days: Saturday, Sunday and Holidays, $1.50 and a la carte.
Sardi’s, 234 W. 44th St. — Lunch, 8Oc to $1.25; Dinner, $1.50 and a Ia carte.
The French table d’hote is usually like the Italian. The a Ia carte is much better. Nearly all the food is good if the restaurant is good, and chicken cooked in any manner is always dependable. The best vegetables in the world are served at Longchamps.
Louis, 154 W. 50th St. — Lunch, 5Oc; Dinner, $1.10 Week days; Saturday, Sunday and Holidays, $1.25 and a la carte.
Longchamps, 19 W. 57th St., 55 5th Ave., 423 Madison Ave., 1015 Madison Ave., a la carte.
Charles, 138 6th Ave. — A la carte Dinner, Sunday, $1.75.
Rich, heavy but grand meats and gravies are served at these restaurants. Luchow’s have apple pancakes that are really dreams of apple pancakes.
Luchow, 110 E. 14th St. —Ala carte.
A la carte dinners include more strange foods than ever Fanny Farmer dreamed. If you order sukiyaki you can cook it at your table, which is quite a lot of fun. This food is nothing like Chinese.
Daruma, 781 6th Ave. — Lunch, 60c; Dinner, $1