Authors:
Historic Era:
Historic Theme:
Subject:
December 1986 | Volume 38, Issue 1
Authors:
Historic Era:
Historic Theme:
Subject:
December 1986 | Volume 38, Issue 1
In nineteenth-century New Orleans and environs, Christmas was a two-day affair, particularly among the devoutly Catholic Creoles. From sunset to sunrise on Christmas Eve, the air was pungent with the smell of burning hackberry and cypress from the triangularshaped bonfires burning along the levee, which were kept blazing to light the way for Papa Noel. On the day before Christmas, families set up their tree—a swamp myrtle cut from the batture and trimmed with candles, cornucopias filled with sugared almonds, and ornaments cut from red paper. After exchanging small presents, the young children hung their stockings from their bedposts and were tucked in for the night. Adults and older children then went to midnight Mass, the focus of the Christmas observance, and came home to a formal but (by their standards) light Souper Creole . To twentieth-century diners, the typical menu seems both large and splendid. Oyster Gumbo Filé • Lemon Rice Daube Glacé • Hot French Bread and Molded Butter Roast Partridge with Hot Brandy Sauce • Oyster and Pecan Dressing Green Peas in Roux with Bacon and Mushrooms Yams in Candied Orange Shells Charlotte Russe with Cherries Jubilee Rum Cake filled with Jelly and topped with Whipped Cream Chicory Coffee with Steamed Milk Pink Coconut Pralines • Candied Grapefruit and Lime Rind The Christmas Day dinner, a family meal served in early afternoon, was even heavier, topped by dozens of desserts. Eggnog was a big Christmas Day item, served before breakfast, and again after dinner, when it was laced with brandy. In that era the Creole celebration spilled over to New Year’s Day, when adults exchanged their big presents and had open house for their friends. Sweets and cookies were served: queen’s drops, pecan dollars, fruit and sherry trifle. Today Christmas in New Orleans is not too different from Christmas elsewhere in America, except that the bonfires are still burned along the levee, perfuming the Christmas Eve air, and the food served on Christmas Day is still Creole and therefore, as any loyal Louisianian will insist, better than the food most Americans put on their Christmas tables. Thin Crawfish Bisque with Brandy and Cream , served with Garlic and Herb Toast Roast Quail with Gravy • Oyster, Pecan, and Cornbread Stuffing Candied Orange Shells stuffed with Yams Broccoli, Cauliflower, Carrots, and Baby Corn in Anchovy and Pimento Sauce Brandied Fruit Thais Creole Salad