Japan Strikes: 1937 (December 1970 | Volume: 22, Issue: 1)

Japan Strikes: 1937

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Authors: Barbara W. Tuchman

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December 1970 | Volume 22, Issue 1

On a lantern-lit Chinese barge poled by boatmen over the dark Pel Hai Lake in the Imperial City, a party from the American Embassy enjoyed a serene excursion under a full moon on the evening of July 7, 1937. In the group were Colonel and Mrs. Stilwell and their daughter Nance; Ambassador and Mrs. Nelson Johnson; Colonel John Marston, commander of the Marine Embassy Guard, and his wife; and Stilwell’s journalist friend John Goette.

Ambassador Johnson had brought his guitar and played his favorite song, Down That Weary Road, as the boatmen paced rhythmically up and down the deck. Light from the boat’s lanterns glimmered in the water, and lit by the moon the softly gleaming white marble dagoba on Jewelled Island rose out of the darkness like the vision of a Buddhist grail. The party felt themselves surrounded by the spirit of ancient Peking, until reality glided by in another boat carrying a group of Japanese officers.

Colonel Marston mentioned that as senior officer of the foreign detachments he had been notified by the Japanese that their troops would be leaving the city that evening for night maneuvers at the railroad bridge at Lukouchiao, twelve miles to the west on the Peking-Hankow line. The Japanese had been holding maneuvers in the area for two weeks, causing worried speculation in the local press. The railway was the only remaining access to Peiping not under Japanese control, and Lukouchiao was a key junction where a shuttle connected with the Peking-Tientsin line. Alongside the railroad bridge a stone bridge eight hundred years old with parapets adorned by marble lions spanned the river on thirty graceful arches. One of China’s most beautiful monuments, admired by the first Westerner who crossed it in the thirteenth century, it was known in his honor as the Marco Polo Bridge.

At eight o’clock on the morning after the boat ride Stilwell’s office learned there had been a skirmish at the bridge. The Japanese, claiming to have been fired on by troops of Sung Che-yuan’s 29th Army garrisoned at nearby Wanping, were now besieging Wanping with mortar and artillery fire to enforce surrender of the “guilty” officers. On Stilwell’s orders the assistant attaché, Major David D. Barrett, drove out with Goette to investigate. The scene was quiet, with only an occasional rifle shot disturbing the calm of a beautiful summer morning, but they found cause for disquiet in the body of a dead Japanese soldier guarded by a platoon. Realizing this would be made the pretext for extreme Japanese demands, they knew they stood in the presence of an Incident. It proved to be the start of the war.

The Chinese garrison commander had refused Japanese terms and for the moment was holding a parley. By the time Barrett returned to the office, Stilwell was already receiving reports of Japanese army units moving in strength through the Great Wall. Despite the show of