<p><span class="deck"> Americans have been doing just that since the days of the California gold rush—and we’re still not full</span> </p>
<p><span class="deck">A walk with my great-grandfather through the last foreign country in New York City</span></p>
<p>Once the most famous Chinese dish in America, chop suey helped spur the growth of Chinese restaurants. A Smithsonian curator is now criss-crossing the country to research its beginnings. </p>